Author Pandora Wang
During the leisurely summer vacation, a journey was planned with friends. Packing our bags, a group of seven set out on a road trip along National Highway 317, embarking on a journey to Tibet.
Chapter OnePassing through Changdu, we encountered a family living on the distant mountainside, surrounded by a sea of flowers. Driven by curiosity, we dared to knock on their door without an invitation. Expecting rejection, we were pleasantly surprised when they warmly welcomed us. The host, a simple Tibetan man, had three children. Perhaps due to the harsh mountain wind and intense sunlight, their skin appeared dark, but it couldn't hide the brightness in their eyes.
As my friend and I walked towards the flower sea, capturing the beautiful scenery, it became the most enchanting painting I had ever seen. Unidentified violet-blue flowers covered the mountains, dotting the lush green peaks like scattered stars. Distant mountain peaks held clouds in the sky, forming a background to the children's laughter. The host pointed to the flower sea, speaking broken Chinese, "Go to the middle and take pictures." His sincere desire to share the beautiful scenery with friends from afar left a lasting impression. We left without learning the name of the flowers, but the bright eyes and pure smiles of the family remained in our hearts.
Chapter TwoBujia Glacier, a snow mountain discovered in 2016. The emerald green lake surface was dotted with floating ice, and pigeons occasionally flew overhead. Despite warning signs advising against climbing the mountain, our determination to witness the world's wonders overcame any caution.
The mountain path was challenging, more mud than road, with puddles left by rain making it difficult to navigate. Trees and weeds grew wildly, obstructing our view. After reaching a platform, we encountered two Tibetan locals. Inquiring about the way to the snow mountain, they stood up and gestured for us to follow. Climbing higher, the altitude increased, and even with good physical condition, we felt a slight lack of oxygen. After hardship, we witnessed the breathtaking beauty of nature, the mysterious craftsmanship of glaciers, and the continuous snow-covered mountain peaks. In that moment, I felt a profound connection with the world.
Encountering more locals on the way, some we had met at the foot of the mountain, we engaged in conversation. A drone was lifted by my friend, attracting the curiosity of several children who gathered to witness this new and fascinating device. As the drone took off, capturing a group photo of us, we stood together like a family in the middle of the mountainside. Suddenly, thick fog rolled in, obscuring the mountain peaks, merging with the snow. Our conversation with the locals also merged, and from a distance, we appeared as one big family.
Several locals picked a large leaf, resembling a lotus leaf, as an impromptu hat. They claimed the leaf was edible, and after taking a small bite, described it as tender and warm. Whether it was the warmth in their mouths or hearts, it was hard to distinguish.
Chapter ThreeQiangba Lin Monastery, the largest monastery in eastern Tibet. After overcoming some obstacles, we finally contacted a Chinese-speaking guide named Ciduo, a monk from the monastery. He led us through the temple, and his words left a profound impact on my inner self.
Ciduo spoke about his small personal wish - he hoped that after our conversation, we would reduce our consumption of meat. In his belief, all living beings are equal, and humans have no right to kill animals. The karmic repercussions of our actions will eventually be equal, and we will face regret after death. His firm conviction made me feel ashamed. For tourists visiting Qiangba Lin Monastery, these words may just be one monk's perspective on life. But for monks like Ciduo, it is a lifelong aspiration. Every day, they repeat these words to different people, hoping to spread their beliefs to the world.
He explained that his proficiency in Chinese was due to the help of a friend from afar. At that time, he couldn't understand Chinese, but the friend, upon leaving, shared contact information and sent him Chinese language learning books along with an audio recording of commonly used expressions. Reading, writing, and listening, he was eventually able to communicate like he does now. He received help from a distant friend, and now he wishes to help those who come from afar in his own way.
Upon parting, we also exchanged contact information with Ciduo. After returning home, we made a phone call to him. He invited us to his home if we visit Tibet again next year. We gladly accepted.
Ciduo, my distant friend, I will embark on another journey, a journey back home, to meet you once again.
远方的朋友 心灵的净土
漫漫暑期,与友期行。收拾行囊,一行七人,驱车往远方去,行驶在317国道上,踏上了去西藏的旅程。
一
路经昌都。远山上有一户人家,旁边种了一片花海。好奇心驱使我们未被邀请敲了那家人的大门。本以为会被拒绝,但他们却热情地招待了我们。主人是一个淳朴的藏族男人,带着三个孩子。大概是山上的风太凛冽了,阳光过于耀眼,他们的肤色显得黝黑。但这些遮不住他们明亮的眼眸。
我与朋友向花海走去,站在旁边记录这一刻的美景。那是我见过最美的画。不知名的紫蓝色小花漫山遍野,点缀着葱绿的高山,如同繁星点点。远处的山峰托着半空中的云,背景里是孩童们的嬉笑声。男主人站在旁边,指了指花海,用蹩脚的汉语说“到中间拍,到中间去拍”。他是如此真诚地渴望把好景向来自远方的朋友展现。我们问他,那是什么花。他没有回答,只是咧开了嘴,灿烂的笑着,一个劲儿的点头。他久经沧桑的脸上挂着的孩童的笑容是那样的纯粹。
分别之时,我们从后视镜中再次看到了那漫山遍野的繁花点点,看到了藏民与他的孩子们向我们挥手告别,高呼着“扎西德勒”。我们最后也未曾知晓那紫蓝色小花的品种,但他们明亮的眼眸与纯粹的笑容,一直存在我的心间。
二
布加冰川。一座2016年才被发现的雪山。翠绿的湖面上漂着浮冰,时不时有鸽子从上方掠过。即便冰川的前方立着一块醒目的标牌,劝诫人们不要轻易上山,却阻挡不了我们为了看遍这世间的奇景不顾一切地决心。
山路十分难走。不,那甚至不能被称为路,它满是泥泞,以及雨天后留下的积水。树枝杂草肆意生长,遮挡住我们的视线。终于攀上一个平台,遇见两个藏民。我们向他们询问通往雪山的路。他们没有说什么,站起身来向前方走去,就要给我们带路。我们不断向上攀,海拔也不断向上长。即便体力再好,我们还是有些许的缺氧。苦难过后,是奇美的景色,是大自然的鬼斧神工,是万千人们看到都要赞叹一句的冰川,是看不见底的雪山连绵。那一刻,我在与世界亲吻。
途中又遇见了一些藏民。几个藏民是在山下已经认识的,交谈过。一身有些泛黑的运动装,和一些新来的年轻人。朋友轻轻举起无人机,两三个小孩在身侧围观,对这种新奇的家伙很是好奇。飞机起飞,为我们留下了一张合照。我们像是一家人,整整齐齐地静默在半山腰。忽然起了大雾,再看山峰,完全没有了,和雪一块融合在了一起。我们和藏民的交谈,也融在了一起。远望过来,就是一家人。
几个藏民摘下一片大叶子,像是荷叶,又不像。用荷叶盖住头,当作帽子。藏民说那叶子能吃,轻咬一口,嫩嫩的,很温暖。不知道是嘴里温暖,还是心里温暖。
三
强巴林寺。藏东第一大寺庙。我们经几番波折终于联系上了一个会汉语的讲解员。他是强巴林寺的僧人,他告诉我们,他的名字叫次多。次多的汉语很好。他领着我们在寺庙里观赏讲解。他所说的话,第一次使我的内心受到了极大的震撼。
他说,他有一个小小的私心,希望他的一番话过后我们不要再过度食用肉类。因为万物生灵的生命皆平等,不分高低贵贱,人类没有权利去扼杀动物。生命的因果报应终究是平等的,我们现在的所作所为,将会在死后迎来忏悔。他说话时坚定的态度让我心生惭愧。对于来参观强巴林寺的游客,这些话只是一个信徒的人生观。但对于像次多一样的僧人来说,这是他们一生的愿望。他们每天面对着不同的人重复这些话语,只是为了将其观念传播向全世界。
他说,他之所以汉语这么好,是因为他曾受到过一位远方朋友的帮助。当时的他并不懂汉语,那位朋友在离开时添加了他的联系方式,在离藏后向他寄来了一些学习汉语的书籍,也专门为他录了一个音频,里面全是关于汉语的常用表达。读读写写,他便可以像现在这样与人交流了。他受到了远方朋友的帮助,所以现在,他也想用自己的方式,来帮助远道而来的朋友。
离别时,我们也同样添加了次多的联系方式。回家后,曾给他打过一个电话。他邀请我们明年再去西藏时,去他家住。我们欣然答应。
次多,我远方的朋友,我会再次踏上旅程,回家的旅程,与你再次相见的。